Rge Rd, A Delicious Trip to the Range (Edmonton 30 in 30)

Symbolic of the stratospheric change in Edmonton's food scene was when Air Canada published its annual enRoute magazine of 2014. There they showcase the best new restaurants in Canada and lo and behold, one of Edmonton's newest establishments was ranked at number 4. To put things into context, this magazine has become one of the more popular critical publications of the food community and its magazine has both the gravitas of foodies but also the popularity and ability to reach the general population. To become published as one of the top new restaurants in Canada is both an honour to its chefs but also a glimpse into the state of the culinary scene in that city and so all Edmontonians should revel in this fantastic prize. Thus it was a no-brainer to go to Rge Rd.

Rge Rd is located in a nontraditional part of Edmonton on the corner of 106th Avenue and 123rd Street. The building is currently going through renovations so I cannot comment on the exterior of the premise, but nevertheless the interiors are handsome with solid oak tables, comfortable chairs and a modern minimalistic design. The staff were incredibly accommodating and knew the rather complex menu well.

The menu itself is small and features a handful of starters, share-ables and mains. The hallmark of Rge Rd is its use of seasonal local Alberta ingredients and touts the relationships the chefs have built with the farms and fisheries in Alberta. Attempting to showcase local cuisine and ingredients is a increasingly popular moniker amongst the food scene and usually is associated with excellent food with incredibly fresh ingredients cooked with expert technique. The menu item that caught my eye was the RGE RD Trip, a tasting menu designed by the chefs where supposed "anything goes". Always wanting to try the novel and unique, me and my dining companion quickly honed in and went with the tasting menu.

The first course consisted of Salmon, Salt Baked Beets and Turnips, Mascarpone. The chefs here smartly paired fresh fatty salmon with the smooth and earthy flavour of beets and turnips. The mascarpone was a nice addition by adding a cool richness that went well with the salmon. However, I thought the vegetables were a tad over seasoned and slightly overpowered the dish and took away from the overall balance of flavours.

Next course as a Mascarpone Agnolotti, Rye and Pecorino Streusel. Here, Rge Rd does an amazing job by providing incredibly tender pasta with smooth delicate mascarpone cheese. The brilliance of the rye and pecorino streusel was felt in each bite as it provided a hint of grainy-ness and richness that the pasta needed. Beautifully presented, full of robust flavour, this was excellent.

Scallops, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Smoked Butter was the next offering. The large sea scallops were perfectly cooked and was contrasted well by the earthy and well seasoned mushrooms. The smoked butter however was the star of the dish delivering a fatty and rich sauce which enveloped each component well. The addition of parsley on the scallops also added a nice herbal aroma to the dish.

We carried on through the excellent food with the Goose Breast, Spaghetti Squash, Cherry Jus, Salt Crusted Beet main. The goose breast, devoid of any gamey-ness, was wonderfully tender with a slight sliver of fattiness under the skin and was paired with roasted spaghetti squash and salt crusted beets. The finisher and star of the dish was the cherry jus, a rich and fragment accompaniment that brought all the ingredients together.

Next up was Alberta Lamb, Chickpea Sauce, Garlic Naan. The most unusual combination of ingredients of the day, the Alberta Lamb was well cooked and paired surprisingly well with the tart and sweet tomato and chickpea sauce. The crispy garlic naan, although providing a textural contrast, felt tacked on and out of place here and did not add anything to the dish.

By this time I was too stuffed for dessert but nevertheless came to try the Creme Caramel and Pumpkin Cheesecake with Chocolate Ganache. The creme caramel was soft and smooth and went well with the sweet caramel sauce and crisp biscotti. The cheesecake was served in a hard chocolate ganache coating and paired pumpkin mousse. I loved the contrast of textures from the hard chocolate to the smooth cheesecake and the light and airy mousse.

Rge Rd provided everything to deserve the ranking it received in the enRoute magazine. From the minute you settle into the restaurant to your last bite of dessert, Rge Rd strives to give its customers top notch treatment. The food was incredible and featured some truly brilliant combination of flavours and textures. The service attentive but unobtrusive. The restaurant classy and smartly decorated. There are no amount of superlatives left to give to Rge Rd except that, simply, this is a must try restaurant for anyone looking for world class fine dining.