Bodega - Wonderful Downtown Tapas (Edmonton 30 in 30)

Food is synonymous with culture and can give diners a glimpse into the everyday lives of different cultures around the world (at a fraction of the cost of a plane ticket). The best restaurants paint a picture with their food and transform each customers' meal into an experience, filled with the culture of that specific cuisine. This is what Bodega does well. I was introduced to the concept of tapas in Winnipeg where a seemingly endless number of Spanish small plate tapas style restaurants have popped up. Thus I was thrilled to hear that Edmonton has its own tapas eatery ... and it serves darn good food to boot!

Bodega shares its location with its sister restaurant on a busy stretch of road on 102 avenue and 103 street. I can see how diners can be confused by the layout of the place (I sure was) as the tapas bar is literally steps from the sister restaurant but each have its own separate menu, tables, wait list and wait staff: perhaps a little clearer demarcation would be of benefit for all. Nevertheless the restaurant itself is handsome and has a modern sheen to it. The wait staff, though, was average at best and intrusive at worst, with a rather unkempt staff member brandying a milk carton full of table cleaner ruining the ambiance and class of the restaurant.

Nevertheless the food is what makes or breaks a restaurant. And boy does Bodega deliver! The menu is a simple one pager (note the water stains) filled to the brim with a litany of small tapas style hot and cold plates. I was intrigued by the majority of the dishes and was pleased to see classics on the menu, such as potatas bravas, but also novel interesting dishes like the bacon wrapped dates. For those looking for larger plates Bodega also offers a few main courses; an interesting choice considering they bill themselves as a tapas style restaurant. Rounding out the menu is their impressive array of wines and beers.

First off the hopper are the Dates. These juicy morsels of fruit are wrapped in bacon and served with a quince reduction. I loved the dichotomy of flavours here with the sweet flesh of the date contrasting the salty crispy bacon. Ultimately it was the sweet, salty and slightly sour quince reduction that brings the entire dish together. Marvelous.

Grilled Octopus was next to come and was the highlight of the night for me. The octopus was incredibly tender, showcasing the masterful technique and skill of the chef. Furthermore the superbly grilled octopus is paired with a black olive vinaigrette, a rich sauce with a hint of the salty meaty olive flavour. Finally the small amount of cilantro adds in much needed freshness to cap off a wonderful dish.

Patatas bravas are the standard appetizer served at almost all Spanish tapas establishments. The base is grilled potatoes which are paired here with garlic and a pigmenton aioli. There was nothing extraordinary here as Bodega serves simple humble potatoes with a rich aioli. I would have preferred a smaller cut of potato as each bite was mostly bland starch with a minute shot of the garlic and pigmenton flavour.

Wild Boar Feijoada was the only disappointment of the day. A pork and bean stew, the chefs do a good job of pairing tender pork with cooked beans and slightly bitter kale. Unfortunately the sauce/broth was too runny and did not impart any flavour into the dish. Perhaps adding in a starch element would have benefited the entire dish.

Bacalhau cake is actually a salt cod fritter served with a romesco sauce. The fritter was nicely fried with a tender exterior and creamy salt cod juicy interior. The romesco inspired sauce, high on peppers and low on nuts, was a nice accompaniment and offered a spicy kick that elevated the otherwise plain fritter.

Grilled Calamari was incredible as well. The golden rings of calamari was masterly grilled tender and served with a spicy tomato sauce. The chefs do a great job in adding the sprouts which provide an earthiness and freshness that counteracts the tasty grilled squid and sweet tomato sauce. Incredible!

My dessert was a Crema Catalana, a Spanish variant of creme brulee. The custard was nice and smooth and featured a nice egg-y flavour. Of course the contrast is the flambe-d sugar topping which unfortunately was overcooked and slightly bitter. Overall a good and functional dessert but nothing extroadindary.

I cannot help but be excited by Bodega. It was truly marvelous food that took me to the coasts of Spain and back. The incredibly tender grilled seafood show an appreciation of and skill in cooking the ingredients and the pairings with the sauces were masterfully done. Although there were some blemishes in the food, the most egregious of the restaurant lies within their wait staff and service. Ultimately though, if the food remains this high quality, I have no qualms in consisting recommending Bodega for anyone looking for high quality tapas in Edmonton.