The Mitchell Block, Affordable Elegance

My first exposure to The Mitchell Block was through Raw Almond 2015. That time I was picking a date based on convenience rather than for the chef cooking but was profoundly impressed by the skill and depth of flavours from that meal. Ever since then I have been meaning to try Chef Sean McKay's restaurant and finally found the opportunity to. This post encompasses two meals I had at The Mitchell Block, one in early December and one in January 2016.

Described as "contemporary cuisine in the heart of the Exchange", the Mitchell Block is a charming restaurant on McDermot Avenue. The brick structure is charmingly renovated with the contemporary and modern sheen that you can see above. An air of elegance is definitely abound when you walk into the restaurant with a small but serviceable dining room on the main floor or a large and lofty lounge found in the upstairs. The kitchen is hidden behind a bank vault esque door which open often enough to give diners a peek into the magic behind those doors. And peek you will with the array of incredible aromas that waft through the restaurant from its delightful menu. The menu (which changed when we revisited in January) is a simple but strong collection of French and Italian influences using local ingredients and unique combinations. And while there is not an vast number of options available, there should be enough to please everyone.

Featuring local bison, we had to start with a Bison Carpaccio. Akin to a beef carpaccio, the bison gives a strong meaty flavour that resembled more of jerky. Each bite encompasses a nice salty flavour from the marinade punctuated by shaved parmesan and preserved yolk. In the background are the small crackers given which add a delicate crunch to the dish while contrasting the rich beef-y meat.

I was sad to hear that these Moules and Frites have moved to the upstairs lounge menu as they were a tremendous hit when I dined here in December. It starts with large meaty portions of fresh mussels which are cooked perfectly and wonderfully tender. Layered on top of them are hefty wedges of potatoes which are all bathed in a rich red curry cream sauce. Coconut milk and cream plays well with with the curry flavour and all amount to a perfect accompaniment to the mussels and fries. The cilantro's inherent earthiness and aroma are used perfectly here to punctuate through the strong curry flavour. Marvellous.

Emboldened by their delightful mussels we also ordered a Cioppino. A play on the hearty Italian stew, Mitchell Block's version takes a host of fresh seafood and infuses them into a saffron broth. The bounty from the sea includes shrimp, mussels, clams and pickerel whom are all perfectly cooked and incredibly tender. But it is the saffron broth with its hint of spiciness and deep tomato-ey flavour that makes this dish fly. And also make sure to dip the accompanied bread into the broth, now enhanced with the taste of all the seafood, at the end of your meal!

Doing seafood and meat well is a hallmark of a great restaurant and I was even more impressed by their Beef Petit Tender Medallions. Almost a broken record now, but the beef really was marvellously cooked and was a perfect medium rare. Taking the highest quality of steak possible, it adds an almost sweet aspect in addition to a meaty and fatty flavour. Accompanying the steak are bone marrow mashed potato and sautéed vegetables. The entire dish is culminated by sauce, a reduction of red wine that adds further depth to each element and helps bring everything together into a single unified dish.

Our second visit started with a Fried Calamari which was described as "the best calamari in town". And although each ring of squid was nicely fried with a light panic crusting, there was nothing phenomenal about this dish. The spicy "sudo di pomodoro" tomato based sauce was, on the other hand, quite delicious and unique. Full of garlic and spices, it definitely added a depth of much needed flavour to the otherwise bland calamari. A good dish but far from the best in town.

As a group of medical professionals we giggled at the Bison Teres Major. Named literally from the part of the animal where it is found (its one of the major upper limb muscles), the meat was reminiscent of our petit tender medallions from above. The big difference is the slight gamey-ness and leaner bison meat which gave a chewier but still tender consistency to the meat. The bone marrow mashed potatoes are instead paired with crispy and tender brussels sprouts which lent a slightly bitter and crispy bite to the dish. The always delicious red wine reduction is here again to bring the whole dish together.

Two of our dining companions went with the special: Rigatoni, Bison, Roasted Red Peppers, Red Onions. A huge portion, the rigatoni is perfectly al dente and loaded with pulled bison meat, roasted red peppers and red onions all infused into a creamy saffron like sauce. Tender and meaty, the bison did well to contrast the starchy pasta which standing up to the rich cream based sauce. Our only complaint was the consistency of the sauce, a bit too liquid-y and not thick enough to envelop each bite of pasta.

The Mitchell Block is an delicious experience that anyone should enjoy. Taking Italian and French influences and modifying them to local ingredients showcases the skill and creativity of Chef McKay. And while the prices are on the higher side, they are on par with similar restaurants in The Exchange and well worth the price of admission given the extremely reasonable portion sizes and spectacular flavour.