Exemplary Chinese at Sun Fortune

My style of blogging has changed significantly over the past fourteen months (hopefully for the better!) and with a shifting of my writing style also has come a more seasoned and nuanced appetite and palate. Re-reading my previous posts revealed key facts about my past that I will need to hone to improve going forward; and with a changing in my palate comes a need to revisit old favourites to see if they have lived up to the test of time. And so on a pleasant afternoon, after finding myself down south on Pembina Highway, I made the impromptu decision to re-re-review one of my favourite spots for Chinese in Winnipeg, Sun Fortune Restaurant.

Sun Fortune Restaurant is located in a strip mall in the South of Winnipeg on Pembina Highway, close in proximity to the University of Manitoba campus. The exterior is rather drab with two dated and plain billboards that does nothing to help it stand out amongst the numerous eateries in the strip mall. Fortunately Sun Fortune benefits from having the gravitas as one of the go-to spots for the Chinese community and thus requires little self advertising, as evidenced from the lineup outside the restaurant at 11AM on a weekend. The interiors are decorated for performance and efficiency with a combination of smaller booth style and larger family oriented seating available. The small army of hostesses/waitresses do a good job of delivering the necessities of service, but otherwise leave you alone as you dine. Those expecting fine service will be disappointed.

I have spoken at length previously of the menu at Sun Fortune, one that seeks to provide the nuances of Cantonese Chinese cuisine. As a seafood restaurant, Sun Fortune keeps tanks of live lobsters and crabs that play a central role in their namesake dishes; and while more exotic options such as Abalone or Sea Cucumber are missing, there are enough crustacean options to keep most diners happy. Alongside the seafood are an immense number of meat, vegetable and rice options ranging from the classics to specialty Chinese dishes. Note that Sun Fortune serves authentic Chinese cuisine, so Westernized dishes will not be found here at all.

I have always loved their clay pot dishes and the Satay Shrimp & Bean Thread (Vermicelli) Hot Pot did not disappoint. Served piping hot, the dish combines large pieces of shrimp with vermicelli in a satay style sauce. Juicy and succulent, the shrimp are both generous in size and numerous in quantity and whose inherent sweetness work perfectly with the richness of the coconut satay sauce. Vermicelli (found in the bottom) does wonders to soak up the flavours of the dish while adding a noodle-like texture to the entire dish. Finishing the dish is cilantro, adding a much needed herbal and floral accent.

I used to dine a number of times at T&T, a chain of Chinese supermarkets and there always ate the Beef Brisket Curry Hot Pot. The version here at Sun Fortune takes tender chunks of beef brisket and tendon that are braised with softened pieces of lo bok (Chinese white radish) in an aromatic and rich broth. The key here is the interplay between the tender meat, the chewiness of the tendon and the melt in your mouth softness of the radish all enveloped in the aromatic Chu Hou sauce. Marvelous.

Feeling gluttonous I also ordered a Crispy Chicken with Tofu Sauce. I always view Crispy Chicken as one of the markers of a good Chinese restaurant and Sun Fortune's was up to par. Golden brown and nicely fried, it featured a crispy exterior while maintaining a delicate sweet and juicy interior. Wanting to change things up slightly, I ordered it with Tofu Sauce, a mixture of preserved tofu and cilantro that adds a blast of well needed salt flavour. Simple in concept but difficult to execute.

Sun Fortune remains as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Winnipeg and the presumptive spot in the south. Authentic flavours, generous portions and reasonable prices all amalgamate together to warrant its popularity, one that certainly is not over-rated. A must visit for anyone looking for Chinese in Winnipeg.