Siam Thai, Just Average

Having such a rich Asian restaurant scene in Winnipeg is a double edged sword. For the diners it allows for richness and diversity; for the owners it propagates competition and a need to constantly invent and create. In other cities I have seen this arms-race result in many family owned restaurants not being able to keep up and ultimately closing down. Somehow Winnipeg, while remaining a mecca for their food scene, has fostered and engendered so many of these family run hole-in-the-wall establishments to survive and prosper.

Siam Authentic Thai Restaurant is located on a busy stretch on St. Anne's Road in St. Vital. It has been one of the top rated Thai restaurants in Winnipeg for quite some time and so it was time enough for me to get a taste.

The restaurant has an elegance to it. From the colourful large signage to the modern decor, from the dim lighting to the attentive wait staff, Siam Thai has everything you would want, on first inspection, of a quality Thai establishment. I was impressed by how busy they were, with more than half of their tables filled and take-out orders flying out the window in a frenzy. Obviously the community likes their Thai. The menu itself offers the usual suspects including traditional curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes. Excited, I set out to order.

I started with a Stir-Fried Chicken in Homemade Chili Sauce. Handsomely presented, this dish was a nice mixture of green beans and chicken breast in a spicy and tangy Thai sauce. The best part was the delicious gravy which had a nice mixture of spicy, salty and sweet. The chicken itself seemed an afterthought and did not contribute anything other than adding some protein to the dish.

The classic that is a measuring stick for all Thai restaurant: Stir-Fried Rice Noodles Beef (Pad Thai). The heaping portion was nicely presented and included well prepared noodles in the usual tangy tomato-ey sauce and finished with a nice sprinkling of peanuts. The cabbage on the side was an odd choice (versus the usual bean sprouts) but it did a similar job by adding crispness and freshness to the dish. Unfortunately I was disappointed with the beef. Lifeless, tough, small and devoid of flavour, the barely edible beef almost made this entire dish unpalatable. It seemed Siam Thai was determined to add protein to the Pad Thai, even if it meant endangering the flavour of the whole dish.

I appreciated Siam Thai's use of traditional ingredients and cooking techniques. It was obvious they have a sound understanding of the sauces and bases, but they showed a lack of nuance and forethought in their protein options. Ultimately there are better Thai restaurants in Winnipeg and I cannot recommend Siam Thai unless one is stuck in the area with a craving for Thai ... just make sure to order the tofu options.